Disassembly and Reassembly: REDLINE NOVA S

Applies to: REDLINE NOVA 10S, NOVA 14S and NOVA 16S

This guide gives step-by-step instructions, with reference images, for disassembling, transporting and reassembling your REDLINE NOVA. Following these procedures helps keep the machine performing well and reduces the risk of damage when you relocate it.

The guide aims to be thorough, but it may not cover every scenario or configuration. If you run into difficulty or are unsure at any point, contact AEON Laser USA support using the details at the end of this guide.

What you need

• Cabinet key
• Phillips head screwdriver
• Allen key set (metric)
• 12 mm wrench
• 7 mm socket driver
• Bucket and towels
• Painter’s tape
• Wire cutters or a similar cutting tool
• 4” zip ties
• Small zip-top bags for hardware, and a marker for labeling
• 6 or more strong friends
• Work gloves
• 2 shoulder dolly moving straps (not the forearm style)
• 2 large furniture dollies
• Moving blankets (optional)
• Measuring tape

Initial disassembly

Remove the panels

1. Using the cabinet key, unlock and remove the main access panels on the left and right sides of the machine. With a second person, lean the panels at a slight angle against an empty wall, away from hazards and heavy foot traffic.

   

   The left side panel has a ground cable attached. Disconnect it from the lever connector first: lift the lever on the side closer to the panel and gently pull the wire free.

   

   

   To remove a panel, lean its top towards you first, then lift it off the bottom of the machine.

   

2. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the 6 bolts around the rear corner panels. A long Phillips head screwdriver reaches the recessed screw through the small access hole on the back edge of each panel. Remove both corner panels and set them aside. Put the bolts in a bag labeled “REAR CORNER PANELS”.

   

   

   

   

3. Find the material passthrough door at the upper rear of the machine. Press the rectangular latches at each end to unlock it, and pull the door towards you. Lean it against an empty wall.

   

   

   

4. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the fan cabinet cover panel. Put the bolts in a bag labeled “FAN COVER PANEL”, and set the hardware and panel aside.

   

   

5. Use the cabinet key to lock every access door and panel on the rear of the machine: the laser tube cover door, above the passthrough, and both component cabinet access doors.

   

   

Unlock the gantry

1. Find the gantry locking pin on the left side of the machine. It has a long yellow lanyard. Pull the ring on the pin to remove the pin fully.

   

   

2. Do the same on the right side. Keep both pins in your contents box.

3. Move to the front of the machine and open the lid fully. Do not release the handle before the lid shocks are fully extended: doing so can cause injury or damage the lid hinges.

4. Remove any loose contents from the bed and set them somewhere safe.

5. Slowly push the gantry all the way to the back of the machine until it stops. Pushing too fast creates resistance and can bring the gantry to a sudden halt. If that happens, slow down.

Clear the bed

1. Find the handle of the scrap drawer under the laser bed. Pull the drawer out just far enough to grab its outer edges, then remove it fully. Do not remove it by the handle alone: the drawer is heavy and can drop without warning once it is all the way out.

   If the bed needs raising to free the drawer, raise it by hand: grab the gray belt beneath the bed and pull it slowly and gently to the left.

   

   

2. The honeycomb table is secured to the bed by an Allen bolt on the left and on the right. Use a 4 mm Allen key to remove them before you try to lift the honeycomb. Put the bolts and spacers in a bag labeled “HONEYCOMB HARDWARE”.

3. With a second person, lift the front of the honeycomb table slightly and pull it slowly forward. Make sure it does not catch on the blades underneath. Remove any foam or packing material left behind. Lean the honeycomb at a slight angle against an empty wall, in a way that does not let it flex: it is fragile and warps easily.

   

4. Wearing work gloves, remove all the blades from the slotted blade table. Lift the front of each blade first, then pull it forward out of the rear slot. The blades can be very sharp, so handle them with care.

   

Remove the front access panel

1. With the lid still open, use the cabinet key to unlock the lower front access door.

2. Find the long rectangular cover plate in the center of the inside face of the panel. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the 6 bolts that hold this LED wiring cover plate. Put the bolts in a bag labeled “FRONT ACCESS PANEL”.

   

   

3. Remove the cover plate and find the lever connector for the wiring inside the panel. Gently pull the wiring out so the connector is easy to reach.

   

   

4. Release the single line wiring connections, on the side with the yellow, red, green and black wires. Flip the orange levers up and gently pull the wires out of the connector. Do not remove the wires that come from the LEDs attached to the panel itself.

   

   

5. Pull the disconnected wire out of the front access panel and into the right side of the machine. Tape it inside the chassis with painter’s tape.

   

   

   

6. Unhook the two cables that hold the lower access panel from their connection points on the panel, and gently lower the panel all the way down.

   

   

7. Have another person support the weight of the panel. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 mounting bolts from each hinge. Put the bolts in the “FRONT ACCESS PANEL” bag. A NOVA 10S has 2 hinges on this panel. A NOVA 14S or 16S has 3.

   

   

Disconnect the exhaust hoses

1. At the rear of the machine, find the 6” exhaust fan and the parts around it in the exhaust cabinet.

   

2. Find the exhaust hose that connects to the ceiling of the exhaust cabinet. Loosen its hose clamp with a 7 mm socket driver or a Phillips head screwdriver, and gently pull the hose free.

   

3. At the front of the laser, find the exhaust hose that connects to the underside of the laser bed. Loosen its clamp and gently pull the hose free. Secure the hose in the bottom chassis with painter’s tape or zip ties.

   

   

Remove the chiller

1. Place a bucket under the water outlet of the chiller at the rear of the machine. Unscrew the drain plug and let any remaining water or antifreeze drain out. Chillers are emptied before shipping, but some fluid can remain. Clean up any spills straight away.

   

2. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the 4 corner mounting bolts that secure the chiller to the chassis. Put them in a bag labeled “CHILLER MOUNTING BOLTS”. Do not remove the smaller bolts on the face of the chiller.

3. Reach in through the exhaust cabinet and shimmy the chiller out from the sides and behind. Stop when it is about halfway out, and leave it turned at a slight angle so you can reach the plugs and water lines on its side.

   On a NOVA 14S or 16S, all the connections are on the right side. On a NOVA 10S, the power and signal cables are on the left and the water hoses on the right. To reach the left side on a NOVA 10S, remove the thumb screw that holds the “Oil-Water Separator Drain” pull-out panel, at the bottom left of the rear face, and pull the panel towards you until it reaches the stopper tab. The wires attached to the chiller are then in reach.

   

   

4. Find the 2 silicone water lines on the side of the chiller. Label two small pieces of painter’s tape “INLET” and “OUTLET”, and stick each one on the water line that connects to that port of the chiller.

   

5. Carefully cut the zip ties that secure the water lines to the chiller. Unplug both lines from the barb fittings, twisting as you pull. Take extra care not to cut the water lines: a damaged line can cause water damage once the machine is powered on.

   

   

6. Unplug the power cord from the side of the chiller. On a NOVA 10S it is an extremely tight fit to get a hand into the water separator cavity, so be patient. This step suits someone with smaller hands and forearms.

   

7. Find the signal wire on the side of the chiller. Unscrew the silver bolts on each side of the connector, with your fingers or a small flat head screwdriver, then unplug it. On a NOVA 10S, you can angle the chiller and shimmy it carefully out as shown to reach the signal cable.

   

   

   

8. The chiller is now fully disconnected. Gently remove it and keep it with the other removed parts.

9. Look through the empty chiller cabinet and find the other end of the 2 water hoses, where they connect to the case, to the left of where the chiller sits. Label two more pieces of tape “INLET” and “OUTLET” and stick each one in line with the fitting its hose is attached to.

   

10. Carefully cut the zip ties that secure the water lines to the case fittings, and unplug both lines, twisting as you pull. Secure the hoses to the bottom chassis with painter’s tape or zip ties.

    

    

Optional part removal

Removing the lid, bed and accessories is optional. It significantly reduces the weight of the machine, but it is not necessary.

Remove the lid

1. Find the long L-shaped bracket on the right underside of the lid. Use a 3 mm Allen key to remove its bolts. There is also a springy wire cover on the camera wire. Put the bolts in a bag labeled “L-SHAPED BRACKET”.

   

2. Use small wire cutters to cut the zip ties that hold the camera cable in place. Take extra care not to cut the camera cable.

   

3. Find the small connector that joins the camera cable to the side of the camera. Gently pull the connector to unclip the cable.

   

   

4. Gently feed the camera cable through the channel along the inner frame of the lid until it is completely free. Coil it neatly and tape it to the inside of the machine.

   

5. Find the lid shocks on each side of the lid. Have a second person hold the lid upright from the center while you and a third person carry out the next steps.

   

6. Use a 12 mm wrench to remove the right lid shock from the lid, while someone removes the left one the same way. Lower the shocks and tape them to the frame of the machine. From this point, do not release the lid: nothing is stopping it from falling.

   

7. Find the lid hinges on the underside of the lid. A NOVA 10S or 14S has 2 lid hinges. A NOVA 16S has 3: on a NOVA 16S, remove all three bolts from the center hinge before the side hinges.

   

   

   Use a 4 mm Allen key to remove two of the three bolts from the left lid hinge. Before removing the third, hold the left side of the lid up firmly with your free hand, because it will likely shift.

   

8. Have the third person remove two of the three bolts from the right lid hinge, then hold up the right side of the lid before removing the last one. Prepare your team: this final screw is the last thing holding the lid to the machine.

9. Slowly lower the front of the lid while the two people at the sides lift their corners away from the machine. Once the lid is level and well above the machine, walk it forward until it is clear.

10. Carry the lid to an empty wall and lower it carefully to rest on the floor, leaning against the wall.

11. Put the lid hinge bolts in a bag labeled “LID HINGE BOLTS”.

Remove the bed

1. Find the mounting bolts on the left and right sides of the bed, which secure the bed to the lead screws.

   

2. Use a 4 mm Allen key to remove all eight bolts. Put them in a bag labeled “BED MOUNTING BOLTS”. You can raise or lower the bed by the belt, as before, to reach the bolts or make room for your hands.

   

3. With three other people, carefully slide the bed forward. As it comes out, put a person on each corner to support its weight. The bed is heavy and awkward to lift, so work as a team.

4. Carry the bed to an empty wall and lower it carefully to rest on the floor, leaning against the wall. Keep hands, fingers and feet clear as you lower it.

Remove the accessories

1. At the rear of the machine, find the exhaust fan and the parts around it in the exhaust cabinet.

2. Find the ancillary outlets towards the right of the exhaust cabinet.

   

   

3. Unplug the Air Pump and Fan power cords from the ancillary outlets. Cut zip ties as needed.

   

   

4. Find the exhaust hose that connects to the exhaust fan. Loosen its hose clamp and gently pull the hose off the fan.

   

5. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the 4 mounting bolts that secure the exhaust fan to the base plate. Put them in a bag labeled “FAN MOUNTING BOLTS”.

   

6. Carefully remove the exhaust fan and its power cord from the cabinet and set them aside.

7. Find the air pump. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the 4 mounting bolts that secure it to the base plate. Put them in a bag labeled “AIR PUMP MOUNTING BOLTS”.

   

8. Unscrew the bolt that secures the green and yellow ground wire to the air pump, then put the bolt back in the pump for safekeeping.

9. Carefully remove the air pump and its power cord from the cabinet and set them aside.

Disconnect the wiring

Left side

1. On the left side of the machine, find the wire passthrough hole in the lower left part of the cabinet.

   

   

2. Remove the long wire track guard above the passthrough hole.

   

3. Start with the green and yellow ground wires that pass through the hole. Trace them to the ground bar, where they should end at its leftmost side. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the mounting bolts fully and disconnect the ground wires.

   

   

   

4. Set the ground wires aside and put the mounting bolts back in the ground bar for safekeeping.

5. Find the black, white and red wires that come through the passthrough hole. Each wire is labeled with a letter and number: A1 connects to A2, B1 to B2, and so on. Every wire you disconnect follows this convention.

   

   

6. One at a time, disconnect each wire labeled with a 1 (A1, B1 and so on): lift the small orange lever on its lever connector and gently pull the wire out. When you finish, every wire that passes up to the top case is disconnected.

   

   

   

7. Reach into the small opening at the lower corner of the machine and gently pull all the disconnected wires down through the passthrough hole. Coil them neatly and tape them to the bottom case.

   

   

NOVA 10S only. While you are still on the left side:

1. Find the air hose quick connector in the bottom case.

   

2. Disconnect the top air hose from the quick connector. Press the blue outer release ring in towards the fitting, hold it there, and pull the hose straight out.

   

   

3. If you have not already, unplug the “AIR PUMP” power cord from the internal outlet in the bottom case.

4. Back at the component cabinet, gently pull both the air hose and the air pump power cord up through the passthrough hole into the top half of the case, and tape them there.

   

   

On every model, check that all the wiring on the left side is disconnected and that nothing remains in the passthrough hole.

Right side

1. On the right side of the machine, find the passthrough hole in the lower right part of the cabinet.

   

   

2. Find the air hoses that come from the passthrough hole, and trace them to where they connect at the solenoid, the air regulator dial or both.

3. Disconnect the air hoses. Press the blue or black outer release ring in towards the fitting, hold it there, and pull the hose straight out. Set the hoses to one side.

   

   

   

   

4. Find the chiller signal cable: a single thick cord in black sheathing. Trace it to its quick connection point and disconnect the lever connectors, the same way as on the left side.

   

5. Find the red and black wires that come through the passthrough hole. Trace them to their quick connection points and disconnect the lever connectors.

   

   

6. Move to the rear of the machine. Looking in through the chiller cabinet, find the wires and air hoses that pass up to the right side through the passthrough hole. Gently pull them down into the bottom case, then coil and secure them as on the left side. The chiller signal cable can be removed fully and kept with the chiller.

Remove the chassis mounting bolts

1. Find the four chassis mounting bolts, one at each corner of the machine. They are inset in each corner of the case and reached from inside the cabinet. Remove them with a 6 mm Allen key and put them in a bag labeled “CHASSIS MOUNTING BOLTS”. Some machines have a nut on these bolts: if so, screw the nut back onto the bolt once it is out.

   

   

   

   

   On a NOVA 10S, the bolt behind the air pump can be hard to reach. An extender on a ratchet helps, or you can uninstall the compressor for clearance.

   

2. Find the support bar between the exhaust cabinet and the chiller cabinet. Every REDLINE NOVA has a rear mounting bolt here, in a slightly different place by size. Reach inside the cabinet and feel for it, then put it in the “CHASSIS MOUNTING BOLTS” bag.

   NOVA 10S: just above where the chiller sits, to the left of the top of the support bar. Use a 6 mm Allen key.

   

   

   NOVA 14S and 16S: at the top of the support bar. Use a 4 mm Allen key.

   

   

3. Find the 3 mounting bolts under the laser bed, in the channel along the rear wall. Use a 6 mm Allen key for the center bolt and a 4 mm Allen key for the left and right bolts. Put them in the “CHASSIS MOUNTING BOLTS” bag.

   

   

   

Transport the machine

Final walkaround

With the mounting bolts out, the machine should be ready to move. First inspect it thoroughly to make sure no connection or component was missed: check for any cable, hose or other attachment still connected. Confirm that every lock and guard is engaged. If everything is in order, the machine can be separated and moved as described below.

Prepare to move

1. Walk around the machine and tape down any wire, cord or line that might come loose during the move.

2. Use a cabinet key to check that the laser tube cabinet and the component cabinets at the rear are locked.

3. Standing at the front, place a hand on each side of the gantry and slowly pull it all the way to the front of the machine until it stops. Pulling too fast creates resistance and can stop the gantry suddenly.

4. Find the gantry locking pin holes on the silver rail, through the left side of the machine. Reinsert the gantry locking pin so the gantry cannot move. Do the same on the right side.

   

5. Use 4 ratchet straps to secure 2 furniture dollies to the rear of the machine. Start by feeding the J-hooks on the ends of the longer straps towards the front of the machine: 2 through the rear chiller cabinet and 2 through the exhaust system cabinet.

   

6. Have a second person reach under the laser bed through the front main access panel to help pull the straps through. Place the 4 J-hooks in the trough on the floor of the main cabinet, towards the front of the machine.

7. Put one person at each front corner, and a third between them to wedge a 2x4 at each corner as they lift.

8. On the count of three, lift straight up as a team. Once both people at the corners are standing fully upright, the third person places a small 2x4 at each corner between the top and bottom portions of the machine. Slowly lower the front corners onto the 2x4s.

9. Check that the 2x4s fully support the top portion and cannot fall out unexpectedly. Finish pulling the 4 J-hooks under the lower cross member and out of the front of the machine.

   

10. Bring the straps over the top of the upper crossbar and place the 4 J-hooks on the bed of the laser, midway between the front and rear of the machine.

11. Have one person position a furniture dolly at each end of the rear of the machine, with the wheels facing outwards and the straps running along the insides of both wheels.

12. Route the other end of the long straps up and around the furniture dolly and across the top of the machine, so they also come to rest inside the main cabinet, on top of the laser bed. Check that the straps are straight and not twisted anywhere.

13. Find the ends of the 4 shorter straps, which carry the buckles. Interlock their J-hooks with the J-hooks on the ends of the longer straps.

14. While the furniture dolly is held in place, have the other two people feed the loose ends of the adjacent longer straps through the axles at the center of the buckles, around the axles and back out the way they went in.

15. Pull the free ends of the straps until they are taut, with no slack between the two ends.

16. Pump the ratchet handles to take up the remaining slack. You should see the strap wrapping around the axle. Keep going until the furniture dolly is secured to the back of the machine and the third person can let go. Close the ratchet handles completely and coil the spare strap so it stays inside the main cabinet during the move.

Move the machine

1. Plan your route to the installation location and make sure it is clear of debris, obstacles, children and pets. Use a measuring tape to confirm that the machine will fit through any tight space with clearance on both sides. Non-standard doorways may need their doors taken off the hinges.

2. Recruit 6 or more reasonably fit people to help lift the machine.

3. Put one person at each corner, with the stronger people at the rear, where the weight is greater. Make sure everyone has a comfortable place to grab and support their corner.

4. On the count of three, lift straight up as a team, using only your leg and buttock muscles. Once everyone is fully upright, the fifth and sixth people quickly pull the base of the machine out of the way. It has to be pulled forward, from the front of the machine.

5. Once the top is free of the base, lower all 4 corners together and set it down on the floor.

6. Move the two people from the rear of the machine to the front. On the count of three, lift the front of the machine upwards as a team until the rear of the machine and the furniture dollies come to rest gently on the floor.

7. With the rest of your team, lift the base of the machine using the same lifting technique. Carry it to the installation location and lean it carefully against an empty wall.

Place the machine

1. Lower the base of the machine and position it facing the right way, with plenty of room on all sides, ready to receive the top portion.

2. Return to the top portion. Have two people push from behind while two others steer and watch each side from the front.

3. At your destination, position the top portion directly in front of the base. Remember that the part facing up is the front of the machine, and the rear faces the ground.

4. Put four people at the underside of the top portion, and the other two at each end to stop the wheels sliding. With everyone holding comfortably, tip the machine back down towards the ground, using the same lifting technique.

5. Once the wheels of the furniture dollies leave the ground, the two people at the ends help lower the top portion slowly to the floor. Check with the team that no fingers are trapped under the machine, then release the load together. Check too that no wire or tubing came loose and could be pinned under the machine. Retape anything that needs it.

6. Again put one person at each corner, with the stronger people at the rear, and make sure everyone has a comfortable place to grab.

7. On the count of three, lift straight up as a team. Once everyone is fully upright, the fifth and sixth people quickly slide the base under the top portion, taking care not to hit the feet and legs of the people lifting. The four lifters must keep their feet planted in the same position so the base can slide in easily.

8. With the base in position, lower all 4 corners slowly together. The two people in charge of the base keep making final adjustments as the gap closes.

9. Check with the team that no fingers are trapped between the top portion and the base, and that no wire or tubing will be pinched between the top and bottom cases. Then release the load together.

10. Have two people support the furniture dollies at the rear while two others loosen the ratchet straps. Remove the dollies and straps by reversing the steps you used to fit them.

Reassemble the machine

Reassemble the chassis

The bolt locations are pictured in “Remove the chassis mounting bolts” above.

1. Gather your tools and the labeled bags of bolts.

2. Use a 6 mm Allen key to start the 4 corner mounting bolts in the four corners of the machine. Do not seat them fully: just thread them and screw them down slightly.

3. Use a 4 mm or 6 mm Allen key to start the rear mounting bolt, at the top of the support bar between the exhaust cabinet and the chiller cabinet. Do not seat it fully.

4. Use 4 mm and 6 mm Allen keys to start the center mounting bolts below the laser bed. Do not seat them fully.

5. Once every bolt is threaded, fully torque all the chassis mounting bolts. Threading them all first lets you shift the machine slightly so the bolt holes line up.

Reconnect the wiring: left side

1. Feed the ground wires and the black and white wires up through the passthrough hole they came out of.

   NOVA 10S: first feed the air pump power cord and air hose down through the passthrough hole into the bottom case, before you feed the wiring up into the top case. Plug the power cord into the ancillary outlet, following the labels on the outlet. Push the air hose into its fitting until it stops, then tug it lightly to check that it is seated.

   

2. Reconnect the ground wires to the ground bar with a Phillips head screwdriver, one ground wire per mounting position. The ground wire with the large hoop connector, labeled “PE” (Principal Earth), must go on the leftmost mounting point of the ground bar.

   

   

3. One at a time, reconnect each wire labeled with a 1 (A1, B1 and so on) to its matching wire labeled with a 2 (A2, B2 and so on). If needed, lift the small orange lever on the empty side of the lever connector. Insert the wire fully, clip the lever down, and tug the wire lightly to check that it is secure.

4. Route any spare wire into the wire tracks and press the wire track cover back on until it clicks. Make sure no wire is pinched where the cover meets the track.

Reconnect the wiring: right side

1. Feed all the wires and the air hoses up through the passthrough hole they came out of. Fetch the chiller signal cable from where you stored it and feed it through with them.

2. Start with the air hoses. If you marked the lines when you removed them, follow your markings. The hoses are noticeably different lengths, so it should be clear where each one connects.

3. Push each air hose into its fitting until it stops, then tug it lightly to check that it is seated.

4. Reconnect the chiller signal cable to its lever connectors, matching each wire labeled with a 1 to the wire labeled with a 2, as on the left side. Tug the wires lightly to check them.

5. Reconnect the remaining black and red wires to their lever connectors the same way, matching colors and labels, and tug them lightly to check them.

Reinstall the chiller

1. At the rear of the machine, reconnect the water hoses to the water fittings in the chassis, to the left of where the chiller sits, near the passthrough hole. Follow the labels you added. Zip-tie both hoses tightly to the fittings. If you are unsure which hose goes where, look at the water hoses in the top case on the right side of the machine and match like color to like color, from top case to bottom.

2. Shimmy the chiller into its cabinet at an angle. When it is about halfway in, reconnect the water hoses to their ports on the chiller, following the “INLET” and “OUTLET” labels, and zip-tie both hoses tightly. On a NOVA 10S, we recommend connecting the signal cable and power cable before the water hoses.

3. Push the power plug gently into the chiller. Reconnect the signal wire by pushing it in and screwing it down.

4. Push the chiller the rest of the way into place. Make sure the wires and hoses do not touch other parts or get pinched or kinked.

5. Put the 4 mounting bolts back in the slotted holes at the front of the chiller and tighten them with a Phillips head screwdriver.

Reconnect the exhaust hoses

1. Start in the exhaust cabinet. Fit the exhaust hose and hose clamp over the flange that extends into the bottom case. Seat the hose fully, leaving no gaps where fumes could escape.

2. Tighten the hose clamp with a Phillips head screwdriver or a 7 mm socket. Tug the hose to check the connection.

3. Reconnect the exhaust hose under the bed the same way. If you removed the bed, reinstall it first, as described below.

Reinstall the front access panel

1. Fetch the front access panel and its hardware, and move to the front of the machine.

2. Secure the panel hinges to the chassis with the hinge mounting bolts and a Phillips head screwdriver. Gently release the panel once it is secure.

3. Reconnect the wires in the lever connectors as follows, then tug them gently to check them: yellow to white, red to red, green to green, black to black.

   

4. Secure the LED cover plate to the panel with its mounting bolts and a Phillips head screwdriver.

5. Reconnect the metal cables to the panel. The hooks at their ends snap onto it. Then close the front access panel.

Reinstall the optional parts

Fan and air pump

1. Place the fan on its mount in the open exhaust cabinet, fit its 4 mounting bolts and tighten them with a Phillips head screwdriver.

2. Find the ventilation hose that connects to the fan. Refit the hose clamp around it on the flange of the fan, using a Phillips head screwdriver or a 7 mm socket.

3. Reconnect the “FAN” plug, following the labels on the outlet cover.

4. Place the air compressor on its mount, fit its 4 mounting bolts and tighten them. Reconnect the ground wire to the air compressor if you removed it.

5. Reconnect the “AIR PUMP” plug, following the labels on the outlet cover.

6. Push the air hose into the air pump, as with the other air hose connections.

Bed

1. With 3 other people, lift the bed back onto the lead screw bed mounts. Orientation matters: the exhaust flange on the bottom of the bed goes towards the rear of the machine, and the debris tray slot faces the front.

2. Use a 4 mm Allen key to refit all 8 mounting bolts, but do not torque them fully yet. You can shift the bed slightly, or adjust the lead screw bed mounts slightly, to line up the bolt holes.

3. Inspect the edge of the bed all the way around the inside of the chassis. The bed must not touch any inner wall. Reposition it if it does.

4. Once the bed is positioned properly, fully torque the mounting bolts.

5. Put the blades, debris tray and honeycomb back in place.

Lid

1. With 2 partners, carefully lift the lid back into place over the laser bed. Have two people hold the lid in the up position while you fit one screw in each hinge. This keeps the lid centered while you attach the shocks.

2. Untape the shocks from the frame. Starting on the left side, refit the shock to the lid and tighten the nut with a 12 mm wrench.

3. While you hold the left side of the lid, have your partner refit the right shock and tighten its nut securely.

4. With your partners still holding the lid up, return all the remaining bolts to the hinges and thread them lightly.

5. Open and close the lid to check that it does not scrape either side of the frame. Adjust it until there is clearance on both sides, then torque the hinge bolts.

6. Feed the camera wire back through the lid, and replace any zip ties that held it.

7. Gently push the wire back into its port on the camera at the top of the lid, then tug it gently to check that it is secure.

8. Refit the L-bracket and screw it into place.

Final steps

Before you close up your machine, email AEON Laser USA tech support to schedule an appointment. At your appointed time, a technician will join you on a video call to check that everything is connected correctly.

Have a couple of gallons of distilled or reverse osmosis water ready before the appointment. You will likely be powering the machine on for the first time, and you will need to fill the chiller.