Chiller Flow Sensor Replacement

Updated November 12, 2026

Applies to: MIRA and NOVA machines with an internal chiller

This guide shows how to replace the chiller flow sensor. Replace it if the sensor fails.

Chiller flow sensor
The chiller flow sensor

Warning: This job uses a heat gun to activate the solder seals, which is a burn risk. Avoid touching the end of the heat gun, any exposed metal it was pointed at, and the solder seals after heating. Seek medical attention if you get burned.

What you need

  • Phillips head screwdriver
  • Wire strippers
  • Wire cutters, or an equivalent cutting tool
  • Heat gun
  • Replacement flow sensor
  • Solder seals
  • Zip ties
  • Paper towels
  • Water container

Remove the old sensor

  1. Make sure the machine is off and unplugged.

  2. Drain and remove the chiller. Follow the chiller removal guide for your machine in the maintenance guides.

    Chiller removed from the machine
  3. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the mounting bolts of the rear cover plate, on the top and around the rear of the chiller. Do not touch any screws on the face of the chiller.

    Rear cover plate bolts on top of the chiller
    Rear cover plate bolts around the back of the chiller
  4. Take off the cover plate and set it aside.

    Chiller with the cover plate removed
  5. Find the flow sensor and note the direction of its arrow. Take a photo for reference. The replacement sensor must be installed facing the same direction.

    Flow sensor with its direction arrow
  6. Cut the zip ties that bind the flow sensor wires, taking care not to damage any wiring.

    Zip ties binding the flow sensor wires
  7. Slide the foam cover back and cut the ties that hold the silicone tubing to the flow sensor. Take care not to damage the tubing. If you do damage it, contact support.

    Foam cover slid back from the tubing on the flow sensor
  8. Cut the two red wires from the old sensor, leaving enough slack for soldering. Cut close to the old sensor.

    Two red wires from the old flow sensor
  9. Pull the tubes off the old sensor and set the sensor aside. Some water is likely still in the sensor and tubing, so have paper towels ready.

Fit the new sensor

  1. Fit the silicone tubes to the new sensor, with the arrow facing the same direction as before. Secure the tubes to the sensor with zip ties.

  2. Strip about 1/2” of sheathing from the wire ends on the new sensor, and from the wire ends left in the chiller where the old sensor was attached.

    Stripping the sheathing from the wire ends
  3. Twist the end of each stripped wire into a tight coil.

    Stripped wire ends twisted into tight coils
  4. Slip a solder seal onto each wire from the new sensor (2 seals in total).

    Solder seals slipped onto the new sensor wires
  5. Bend the end of each twisted wire into a small hook.

    Twisted wire ends bent into small hooks
  6. Hook one wire from the new sensor, which carries a solder seal, to one of the wires left in the chiller. Pinch the hooks together to secure the connection.

    Two wire hooks pinched together
  7. Slide the solder seal over the connection. The gray or silver bead in the center of the seal must sit directly over the wire connection, with the red spots at each end over the sheathing on each side.

    Solder seal positioned over the wire connection
  8. Connect the remaining two wires the same way.

  9. Activate both solder seals with a heat gun, one at a time. Apply the heat in a steady, broad sweep from end to end of the seal, rotating gently so all sides are heated. The seal is activated when the gray center bead melts to a metallic silver, the plastic shrinks to fit the wire, and the red spots at each end melt and release. The red spots are the glue that secures the seal.

    Heat gun activating a solder seal
  10. Let both solder seals cool fully. They turn a smoky white when cool. Do not pull on the wires while the solder is hot, or the connection can come undone and will need to be stripped and soldered again.

    A solder seal that is still hot above one that has cooled
    A seal that is still hot (top) and one that has cooled properly (bottom)
  11. Once the seals are fully cool, give each connection a light tug to check that it is secure.

Caution: Angle the heat gun so the heat moves out of the chiller, not towards other components inside it. Do not overheat the area. If you see smoke or burning, remove the heat and let it cool.

Need a hand?

Email support@aeonlaser.us or call 321-260-2325. More ways to reach us are on the Support page.

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