Disassembly and Reassembly: NOVA

Applies to: NOVA 10, NOVA 14 and NOVA 16

This guide shows how to disassemble and reassemble your NOVA. Use it as a reference when you move the whole machine or replace a major component, such as the chiller.

What you need

• Cabinet key
• Phillips head screwdriver and a tiny flat head screwdriver
• Allen key set (metric)
• 12 mm wrench, 7 mm socket driver and 14 mm socket wrench
• 4 caster wheels and their 16 mounting bolts
• Wire strippers and ferrule crimpers
• Bucket and towels
• Painter’s tape
• Wire cutters or a similar cutting tool
• 4” zip ties
• Small zip-top bags and a marker
• 6 or more strong friends
• Work gloves
• 2 shoulder dolly moving straps (not the forearm style)
• 2 large furniture dollies
• Moving blankets (optional)
• Measuring tape

Disassemble the machine

Remove the panels

1. Using the cabinet key, unlock and remove the main access panels on the left and right sides of the machine. With a second person, lean the panels at a slight angle against an empty wall, away from hazards and heavy foot traffic. To remove a panel, pull its top towards you first, then lift it off the bottom of the machine.

   

   

2. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the 6 bolts around the rear corner panels. A long Phillips head screwdriver reaches the recessed screw through the small access hole on the back edge of each panel. Remove both corner panels and set them aside. Put the bolts in a bag labeled “REAR CORNER PANELS”.

   

   

3. Find the long, narrow passthrough panel at the upper rear of the machine. Press the rectangular latches at each end to release it, and pull it towards you. Lean it against an empty wall.

   

4. Use the cabinet key to remove the drive shaft cover panel on the top rear of the machine, the same way as the large side panels.

Unlock the gantry

1. Find the silver rail through the left side of the machine. Look for a silver key ring hanging just below the black guard belt, towards the front of the rail.

   

2. Pull the ring to remove the gantry locking pin fully. Do the same on the right side of the machine. Keep both pins in your toolbox.

   

3. Grip the lid handle firmly and lift until the lid is fully open. Do not release the handle before the lid shocks are fully extended: doing so can cause injury or damage the lid hinges.

4. Remove any loose contents from the bed and set them somewhere safe.

5. Slowly push the gantry all the way to the back of the machine until it stops. Pushing too fast creates resistance and can bring the gantry to a sudden halt. If that happens, slow down.

Clear the bed

1. With the lid still open, use the cabinet key to unlock the lower access panel at the front of the machine.

2. Unhook the two cables that hold the lower access panel to the machine, and gently lower the panel all the way down.

   

3. Lift the front of the honeycomb table slightly and pull it slowly forward. Make sure it does not catch on the blades underneath. Remove any foam or packing material left behind.

4. With a second person, carefully remove the honeycomb table and lean it at a slight angle against an empty wall, in a way that does not let it flex. Honeycombs are very brittle and warp easily.

   

5. Wearing work gloves, remove all the blades from the slotted blade table. Lift the front of each blade first, then pull it forward out of the rear slot. The blades can be very sharp, so handle them with care.

   

6. Find the grate at the base of the laser bed. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the 10 bolts around it, and put them in a bag labeled “GRATE”. Remove the grate and set it aside.

   

7. Find the handle of the scrap drawer under the laser bed. Pull the drawer out just far enough to grab its outer edges, then remove it fully. Do not remove it by the handle alone: the drawer is heavy and can drop without warning once it is all the way out.

   

   If the bed needs raising to free the drawer, grab the gray belt beneath the bed and pull it slowly and gently to the left.

   

Remove the lid (optional)

Removing the lid significantly reduces the weight of the top portion of the machine. If you leave the lid on, strap it securely so it cannot open in transit.

1. Find the long L-shaped bracket on the right underside of the lid. Use a Phillips head screwdriver or a 3 mm Allen key to remove its bolts. If there is a springy wire cover on the camera wire, also remove the bolt that attaches the wire track to the lid. Put the bolts in a bag labeled “L-SHAPED BRACKET”. Some machines have neither the bracket nor the spring cover.

   

   

2. Use small wire cutters to cut the zip ties that hold the camera cable in place. Take extra care not to cut the camera cable.

   

3. Find the small connector that joins the camera cable to the side of the camera. Gently pull the connector to unclip the cable. Do not pull on the cable itself, which can damage it.

   

4. Gently feed the camera cable through the channel along the inner frame of the lid until it is completely free. Coil it neatly and tape it to the inside of the machine.

   

5. Find the lid shocks on each side of the lid. Have a second person hold the lid upright from the center while you and a third person carry out the next steps.

6. Use a 12 mm wrench to remove the right lid shock from the lid, while someone removes the left one. Lower the shocks and tape them to the frame of the machine. From this point, do not release the lid: nothing is stopping it from falling.

   

7. Find the lid hinges on the underside of the lid. Use a 4 mm Allen key to remove two of the three bolts from the left lid hinge. Before removing the third, hold the left side of the lid up firmly with your free hand, because it will likely shift.

   

8. Have the third person remove two of the three bolts from the right lid hinge, then hold up the right side of the lid before removing the last one. Prepare your team: this final screw is the last thing holding the lid to the machine.

9. Slowly lower the front of the lid while the two people at the sides lift their corners away from the machine. Once the lid is level and well above the machine, walk it forward until it is clear.

10. Carry the lid to an empty wall and lower it carefully to rest on the floor, leaning against the wall.

11. Put the 6 lid hinge bolts in a bag labeled “LID”.

Remove the exhaust fan and hoses

1. Find the 6” exhaust port in the lower corner at the rear of the machine. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the exhaust cabinet access panel, and set it aside. Put the bolts in a bag labeled “EXHAUST ACCESS PANEL”.

   

   

2. Find the ancillary outlets towards the right of the exhaust cabinet.

   

3. Unplug all 3 power cords from the ancillary outlets.

   

4. Find the hose that connects to the ceiling of the exhaust cabinet. Loosen its hose clamp with a 7 mm socket driver or a Phillips head screwdriver, and gently pull the hose free.

   

5. Find the hose that runs through the rear wall of the exhaust cabinet to the Iris system. Loosen its hose clamp and gently pull the hose off the rear Iris.

   

6. Find the hose that connects to the exhaust fan. Loosen its hose clamp and gently pull the hose off the fan.

   

7. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the 4 mounting bolts of the exhaust fan. Put them in a bag labeled “FAN”.

   

8. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the green and yellow ground wire from the exhaust fan. Put the bolt back in its hole for safekeeping.

   

9. Carefully remove the exhaust fan from the cabinet and set it aside.

10. NOVA 14 and NOVA 16: find the support bar between the exhaust cabinet and the chiller cabinet. Reach inside the cabinet and feel for the single rear M4 mounting bolt on top of the support bar. Remove it with a 4 mm Allen key or a Phillips head screwdriver, and put it in a bag labeled “REAR MOUNTING BOLT”. The NOVA 10 has no rear mounting bolt.

    

11. At the front of the laser, find the hose that connects to the underside of the laser bed. Loosen its hose clamp and gently pull the hose free. Remove the hose completely and set it aside.

    

12. Find the M6 mounting bolts through the exhaust port at the top of the laser bed. There are 1 to 3, depending on the generation of the machine. Remove them with an Allen key and put them in a bag labeled “CENTER MOUNTING BOLT(S)”.

    

13. Tape any loose wires in the area to the bottom of the exhaust cabinet. The air compressor cord can be wedged into the compressor bracket for safekeeping.

    

Remove the chiller

1. Place a bucket under the water outlet of the chiller at the rear of the machine. Unscrew the drain plug and let any remaining water or coolant drain out. Chillers are emptied before shipping, but some fluid can remain. Keep children and pets away, and clean up any spills straight away.

   

2. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the 4 corner mounting bolts on the outside of the chiller. Put them in a bag labeled “CHILLER”. Do not remove the smaller bolts on the face of the chiller.

   

3. Reach in through the exhaust cabinet and shimmy the chiller out from behind. Stop when it is about halfway out, and leave it turned at a slight angle so you can reach the plugs and water lines on its side.

   On a NOVA 14 or 16, the power and signal cables are on the right side. On a NOVA 10, they are on the left. To reach the left side, use a 2.5 mm Allen key to remove the locking bolt from the handle of the pull-out panel, through the hole in the handle, and set the bolt aside. Pull the panel towards you until it reaches the stopper tab. The wires attached to the chiller are then in reach.

   

   

   

4. Find the signal wire on the side of the chiller. Use a small flat head screwdriver to unscrew the silver bolts on each side of the connector, then unplug it.

   

5. Unplug the power cord from the side of the chiller.

   

6. Find the 2 silicone water lines on the side of the chiller. Label two small pieces of painter’s tape “INLET” and “OUTLET”, and stick each one on the water line that connects to that port of the chiller.

   

7. Use wire cutters to carefully cut the zip ties that secure the water lines to the chiller. Unplug both lines from the barb fittings, twisting as you pull. Take extra care not to cut the water lines: a damaged line can cause water damage once the machine is powered on.

   

   

8. The chiller is now fully disconnected. Gently remove it and keep it with the other removed parts.

9. Look through the empty chiller cabinet and find the other end of the 2 water hoses, where they connect to the case, to the left of where the chiller sits. Label two more pieces of tape “INLET” and “OUTLET” and stick each one in line with the fitting its hose is attached to.

   

10. Carefully cut the zip ties that secure these water lines, and unplug both lines, twisting as you pull. Keep the hoses with the chiller.

Disconnect the wiring

PSU side (left)

1. On the PSU side of the machine, the left side, find the passthrough hole in the lower left part of the cabinet.

   

   

   

2. Remove the long wire track guard next to the passthrough hole.

   

   

3. Start with the green and yellow wires that pass through the hole. Trace them to the ground bar. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the mounting bolts fully and disconnect the ground wires.

   

   

   

4. Set the ground wires aside and put the mounting bolts back in the ground bar for safekeeping.

   

   

5. Find the brown and blue wires that come through the passthrough hole. Trace each one to its connection on the gray wire bus bar.

   

   

6. One at a time, release each wire by pressing the small orange square right next to it. A small flat head screwdriver works well, but any small, stiff object will press the tab. If the wires are not labeled, number each connection on both sides with painter’s tape first.

   

   

   

7. Reach into the small opening at the lower corner of the machine and pull all the disconnected wires down through the passthrough hole. Coil them neatly and tape them to the bottom case.

   

   

   

   

   

8. Find the case corner mounting bolts at each corner on this side of the machine. Remove them with an Allen key and put them in a bag labeled “CORNER MOUNTING BOLT(S)”.

   

   

   

Controller and E-stop side (right)

1. On the controller and E-stop side of the machine, the right side, find the passthrough hole in the lower right part of the cabinet.

   

   

2. Remove all the wire track guards on this side.

   

3. Start with the two brown wires that come through the passthrough hole. Trace each one to its connection on the gray wire bus bar.

   

4. One at a time, release each wire by pressing the small orange square right next to it.

   

5. Find the Iris system JST wires. They are normally a fused red, green and white wire, but colors can vary. Trace them to their connection near the Iris system PSU and board box, at the bottom of the cabinet area.

   

6. Mark both the top and the bottom wire of one of the connections with a small piece of painter’s tape. This is your reference when you rewire.

   

7. Disconnect both JST connections by pressing gently on the locking tab and pulling the wires apart. Rest the wires outside the machine. The connection should come apart fairly easily. Do not tug hard, or the wire can come loose from the plastic head and will need repair.

   

   

8. Find the air hoses that come from the passthrough hole, and trace them to where they connect at the solenoid, the air regulator dial or both.

   

   

9. Disconnect each air hose by pushing the blue lock ring into the fitting and pulling the hose out. Pull the hoses out of any wire tracks and rest them with the wires you have already removed.

   

   

   If the hose at the regulator is hard to remove, take off the E-stop mounting panel for better access. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove its 6 mounting bolts. Pull the panel gently out towards you without yanking it, because several wire connections and components behind it can be damaged. Disconnect the air hose from the rear of the air regulation dial, then push the panel back into place and refit its bolts.

   

   

10. Find the chiller signal cable: a single thick cord in black sheathing. Trace it to its connection on the controller, at terminal port “CN5”, cutting zip ties along the way as needed. Take care not to cut or damage any wires. If the signal cable leads to a bus bar connection instead, remove it as you did the other bus bar connections.

    

    

11. Pinch the green terminal block and wiggle it free of the controller. Find the wires labeled “WP1” and “GND”. If the wires have no labels, the labeling on the controller port shows which position each wire takes in the terminal block.

    

12. Use a small flat head screwdriver to loosen the “WP1” wire connection on the terminal block, and pull the wire free.

    

13. The “GND” connection holds two wires joined in one ferrule connector. Identify the ground wire that comes from the chiller signal cable: trace the “WP1” wire back to the sheathing, then follow the “GND” wire from there to the ferrule.

    

14. Cut the ground wire of the chiller signal cable as close to the ferrule as possible.

    

15. Plug the terminal block back into the controller.

16. Pull the chiller signal cable out of any wire tracks and rest it with the wires you have already removed.

    

17. Move to the rear of the machine. Looking in through the chiller cabinet, find the wires that pass up to the controller side through the passthrough hole. Gently pull the wires and air hoses down into the bottom case, then coil and secure them as on the PSU side.

18. Find the case corner mounting bolts at each corner on this side of the machine. Remove them with an Allen key and put them in the “CORNER MOUNTING BOLT(S)” bag.

    

    

    

    

Transport the machine

Prepare to move

1. Walk around the machine and tape down any wire, cord or line that might come loose during the move.

2. Use a cabinet key to check that the laser tube cabinet at the rear of the machine is locked.

3. Standing at the front, place a hand on each side of the gantry and slowly pull it all the way to the front of the machine until it stops. Pulling too fast creates resistance and can stop the gantry suddenly.

4. Find the gantry locking pin holes on the silver rail, through the left side of the machine. Reinsert the gantry locking pin so the gantry cannot move. Do the same on the right side.

5. Use 4 ratchet straps to secure 2 furniture dollies to the rear of the machine. Start by feeding the J-hooks on the ends of the longer straps towards the front of the machine: 2 through the rear chiller cabinet and 2 through the exhaust system cabinet.

   

6. Have a second person reach under the laser bed through the front main access panel to help pull the straps through. Place the 4 J-hooks in the trough on the floor of the main cabinet, towards the front of the machine.

7. Put one person at each front corner, and a third between them to wedge a 2x4 at each corner as they lift.

8. On the count of three, lift straight up as a team. Once both people at the corners are standing fully upright, the third person places a small 2x4 at each corner between the top and bottom portions of the machine. Slowly lower the front corners onto the 2x4s.

9. Check that the 2x4s fully support the top portion and cannot fall out unexpectedly. Finish pulling the 4 J-hooks under the lower cross member and out of the front of the machine.

   

10. Bring the straps over the top of the upper crossbar and place the 4 J-hooks on the bed of the laser, midway between the front and rear of the machine.

11. Have one person position a furniture dolly at each end of the rear of the machine, with the wheels facing outwards and the straps running along the insides of both wheels.

12. Route the other end of the long straps up and around the furniture dolly and across the top of the machine, so they also come to rest inside the main cabinet, on top of the laser bed. Check that the straps are straight and not twisted anywhere.

13. Find the ends of the 4 shorter straps, which carry the buckles. Interlock their J-hooks with the J-hooks on the ends of the longer straps.

14. While the furniture dolly is held in place, have the other two people feed the loose ends of the adjacent longer straps through the axles at the center of the buckles, around the axles and back out the way they went in.

15. Pull the free ends of the straps until they are taut, with no slack between the two ends.

16. Pump the ratchet handles to take up the remaining slack. You should see the strap wrapping around the axle. Keep going until the furniture dolly is secured to the back of the machine and the third person can let go. Close the ratchet handles completely and coil the spare strap so it stays inside the main cabinet during the move.

Move the machine

1. Plan your route to the installation location and make sure it is clear of debris, obstacles, children and pets. Use a measuring tape to confirm that the machine will fit through any tight space with clearance on both sides. Non-standard doorways may need their doors taken off the hinges.

2. Recruit 6 reasonably fit people to help lift the machine.

3. Put one person at each corner, with the stronger people at the rear, where the weight is greater. Make sure everyone has a comfortable place to grab and support their corner.

4. On the count of three, lift straight up as a team, using only your leg and buttock muscles. Once everyone is fully upright, the fifth and sixth people quickly pull the base of the machine out of the way. It has to be pulled forward, from the front of the machine.

5. Once the top is free of the base, lower all 4 corners together and set it down on the floor.

6. Move the two people from the rear of the machine to the front. On the count of three, lift the front of the machine upwards as a team until the rear of the machine and the furniture dollies come to rest gently on the floor.

7. With the rest of your team, lift the base of the machine using the same lifting technique. Carry it to the installation location and lean it carefully against an empty wall.

Place the machine

1. Find the 4 caster wheels and 16 mounting bolts in your laser toolbox. Use a socket wrench or Allen key to fit the wheels to all four corners of the base of the machine.

2. Lower the base of the machine and position it facing the right way, with plenty of room on all sides, ready to receive the top portion.

3. Return to the top portion. Have two people push from behind while two others steer and watch each side from the front.

4. At your destination, position the top portion directly in front of the base. Remember that the part facing up is the front of the machine, and the rear faces the ground.

5. Put four people at the underside of the top portion, and the other two at each end to stop the wheels sliding. With everyone holding comfortably, tip the machine back down towards the ground, using the same lifting technique.

6. Once the wheels of the furniture dollies leave the ground, the two people at the ends help lower the top portion slowly to the floor. Check with the team that no fingers are trapped under the machine, then release the load together. Check too that no wire or tubing came loose and could be pinned under the machine. Retape anything that needs it.

7. Again put one person at each corner, with the stronger people at the rear, and make sure everyone has a comfortable place to grab.

8. On the count of three, lift straight up as a team. Once everyone is fully upright, the fifth and sixth people quickly slide the base under the top portion, taking care not to hit the feet and legs of the people lifting. The four lifters must keep their feet planted in the same position so the base can slide in easily.

9. With the base in position, lower all 4 corners slowly together. The two people in charge of the base keep making final adjustments as the gap closes.

10. Check with the team that no fingers are trapped between the top portion and the base, and that no wire or tubing will be pinched between the top and bottom cases. Then release the load together.

11. Have two people support the furniture dollies at the rear while two others loosen the ratchet straps. Remove the dollies and straps by reversing the steps you used to fit them.

Reassemble the machine

If you need photos for reference, go back to the matching part of the disassembly section.

Reassemble the case

1. Gather your tools and the labeled bags of bolts.

2. Screw the 4 corner mounting bolts into the four corners of the machine.

3. Screw in the back mounting bolt, at the top of the support bar between the exhaust system access cabinet and the chiller cabinet.

4. Screw in the center mounting bolts, below the laser bed.

Reconnect the wiring: PSU side

1. Feed the ground wires and the brown and blue wires up through the passthrough hole they came out of.

   

2. Reconnect the ground wires to the ground bar with a Phillips head screwdriver, one ground wire per mounting position. The ground wire with the large hoop connector, labeled “PE” (Principal Earth), must go on the leftmost mounting point of the ground bar.

   

   

3. Work out where each brown and blue wire goes, from your own labels or from the factory labels on the wires. With the factory labels:

   • Every wire you removed attaches to the left side of the bus bar, in numerical order. Wire “C4”, for example, goes in the hole immediately above “C5”.
   • The left and right sides also correspond. Wire “C2”, on the left of the bus bar, sits in line with wire “D2” on the right. Not every wire has a match on the right side.

   

   

4. Reconnect the brown and blue wires to their positions on the gray bus bar. Pinch the wire at its end, just above the plastic shroud of the ferrule. Line the ferrule up with the right hole and push it in firmly. You should feel a light click. Tug the wire gently to check that it is seated, and reseat it if it pulls out.

   

   

5. Route any spare wire into the wire tracks and press the wire track cover back on until it clicks. Make sure no wire is pinched where the cover meets the track.

Reconnect the wiring: controller and E-stop side

1. Feed all the wires and the air hoses up through the passthrough hole they came out of.

2. Start with the air hoses. If you marked the lines when you removed them, follow your markings. On current generations of NOVA, the two air lines are very different lengths, and the longer hose connects to the air regulator dial.

3. Push each air hose into its fitting until it stops, then tug it lightly to check that it is seated.

   

4. Reconnect the brown wires to the gray bus bar. Identify and seat them the same way as on the PSU side.

   

   

5. Reconnect the Iris system JST wires. Start with the marked pair: push the male end into the female end, watching the lock tab and lock lever on the two connectors. The tab seats into the lever. Then seat the unmarked pair the same way.

   

   

   

   

6. Reinstall the chiller signal cable. Unplug the “CN5” terminal block from the controller.

7. Use a small flat head screwdriver to install the “WP1” wire back in its connection point, then tug it lightly to check that it is seated. See the disassembly steps if you are unsure which port it uses.

   

8. Reinstall the ground wire of the chiller signal cable. The ideal way adds a ferrule connector, but the wire can also be installed without one. Follow one of the two methods below.

9. Reseat the terminal block in the controller.

10. Route any spare wire into the wire tracks and install the wire track covers.

Ground wire without a ferrule

1. Use wire strippers to strip about 1/4” of sheathing from the cut end of the green wire. Twist the exposed wire into a tight coil.

   

   

2. Use a small flat head screwdriver to loosen the ground wire connection on the terminal block. Do not remove the ground wire that is still installed.

3. Insert the stripped wire into the port alongside the other ground wire and tighten the connection firmly.

   

4. Tug the wire lightly to check that it is seated.

Ground wire with a ferrule

1. Use wire strippers to strip about 1/4” of sheathing from the cut end of the green wire.

2. Use a small flat head screwdriver to loosen the ground wire connection on the terminal block, and remove the installed ground wire.

3. Cut the ferrule end off that ground wire, and strip it the same way.

4. Twist the exposed ends of both ground wires together into a tight coil. Keep the ends of the sheathing lined up with each other as you twist, so no bare wire shows outside the ferrule later.

   

5. Slide a ferrule connector of the right size over the wires, as far down as it will go. It stops when it reaches the sheathing.

   

6. Use ferrule crimpers to crimp the ferrule fully to the wires. Trim any excess wire flush with the end of the ferrule.

   

   

   

7. Reinstall the joined ground wires in the terminal block, and tug them lightly to check that they are seated.

Reinstall the chiller

1. Return to the rear right access cabinet. Start with the hose that carries your tape marking. Find the water fitting at the top of the rear right cabinet that also has a piece of tape, and push the hose onto it.

2. Push the second hose onto the second water fitting at the top of the cabinet. Zip-tie both hoses tightly to the fittings.

3. Return to the back of the machine and gently pull the other end of the hoses through the chiller cabinet. The hoses must run underneath the cavity the chiller fits into.

4. Shimmy the chiller into its cabinet at an angle. When it is about halfway in, reconnect the other end of the hoses, matching the “INLET” and “OUTLET” labels to the ports, and zip-tie both hoses tightly.

5. Push the power plug gently into the chiller. Reconnect the signal wire by pushing it in and screwing it down.

6. Push the chiller the rest of the way into place. Make sure the wires and hoses do not touch the Iris system or get pinched or kinked.

7. Put the 4 mounting bolts back in the slotted holes at the front of the chiller.

Reinstall the fan

1. Place the fan in the open exhaust system access cabinet.

2. Refit the 4 mounting bolts and the ground wire, and tighten them with a Phillips head screwdriver.

3. Find the ventilation hose that opens to the top of the laser bed. Refit its hose clamp on the flange at the top of the cabinet.

4. Find the ventilation hose that opens to the fan. Refit its hose clamp on the flange of the fan, using a Phillips head screwdriver or a 7 mm socket.

5. Find the ventilation hose that opens to the underside of the laser bed. Refit its hose clamps on the flange at the back of the fan cabinet and at its connection under the bed.

6. Reconnect the “FAN”, “AIR” and “CHILLER” plugs, following the labels on the tape or the outlet cover.

Reinstall the lid

1. With 2 partners, carefully lift the lid back into place over the laser bed. Have two people hold the lid in the up position while you fit one screw in each hinge. This keeps the lid centered while you attach the shocks.

2. Untape the shocks from the frame. Starting on the left side, refit the shock to the lid and tighten the nut with a 12 mm wrench.

3. While you hold the left side of the lid, have your partner refit the right shock and tighten its nut securely.

4. With your partners still holding the lid up, return all the remaining bolts to the hinges and thread them lightly.

5. Open and close the lid to check that it does not scrape either side of the frame. Adjust it until there is clearance on both sides, then torque the hinge bolts.

6. Feed the camera wire back through the lid, and replace any zip ties that held it.

7. Push the wire back into the camera at the top of the lid.

8. Refit the L-bracket and screw it into place.

Final steps

1. Before you close up your machine, email AEON Laser USA tech support to schedule an appointment. At your appointed time, a technician will join you on a video call to check that everything is connected correctly. Have a couple of gallons of distilled or reverse osmosis water ready: you will likely be powering the machine on for the first time, and you will need to fill the chiller.

2. Once tech support gives you the go-ahead, reinstall the crumb tray drawer, blades and honeycomb.

3. Check the mirror alignment. Watch the NOVA mirror alignment video.